Dark and Flat Frames
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Polar Alignment
Focal Length
Focussing
Finding and Centering
Taking the Image
Dark and Flat Frames
Image Processing
Colour Imaging

Dark frames

Long duration exposures (greater than a minute) will be affected by noise, know as dark current, generated within the CCD camera itself.  To remove this noise from your final image you need to take what is called a dark frame (an image made at the same ambient temperature and exposure duration of the original image but with the telescope aperture covered or camera shutter closed).  You then subtract this dark frame from your image as the first step in image processing and the dark current noise will be removed.  The flip mirror finder is useful for taking dark frames as you can achieve the same effect as covering the telescope aperture or closing the camera shutter simply by rotating the finder mirror to the 45 degree position.   With the mirror in this position all light is blocked from entering the camera.

Flat Fields

These are images taken against a field of even illumination (e.g. the evening or morning sky when it is light enough not to show stars but dark enough not to saturate the pixels quickly). These images can be used  to correct for variations in sensitivity across the CCD chip or for specs of dust on the chip, filters or optics that can appear as dark doughnut shaped shadows on the image after processing.  My first images did not use flat fields but I now use them to calibrate all my images.  I did not use flat fields initially because it was not always possible or easy to take a flat field of the evening or morning sky during an imaging session.  What enabled me to take good quality flat fields easily was a lightbox.  This is an device which fits over the end of your telescope and uses a standard lightbulb to provide the even field of illumination required for taking flat fields.  The advantage of using a lightbox is that you can take the flat fields at any time during the imaging session and you do not have to worry about stars appearing in the image and ruining your flat. I constructed my lightbox myself using one built by Chuck Shaw as the basis for my design.  I made some slight modifications to his plan to ensure my lightbox fitted over the end of my LX200 10 inch SCT.  Take a look at the the drawings of my lightbox plan.